“Art What thou Eat”: Food in Literature, Art, and Culture

Session Coordinator: David Schoonover, Univ. of Iowa

 

 

Emily Yu

University of Wisconsin--Madison

eyu@wisc.edu

 

“Food for Thought: Power and Foodways in Hurston’s Their Eyes Were Watching God”

 

Many of Zora Neale Hurston’s recent critics have either focused on the folkways or the rhetorical strategies found within Their Eyes Were Watching God when reading the text. Critics regard Janie’s ability, or inability, to discover herself as a result within these projects. However, few critics have addressed the importance of food and foodways as a means of reading the text’s power relationships and social hierarchies. The practices of foodways illustrate the forms of cohesion for a group’s identity, while demonstrating the relationships of power within the group.

 

Zora Neale Hurston’s experiences as an anthropologist in Jamaica fueled her impressions of ritual and conduct within various foodway practices. She demonstrates the organization of community and the power relations between characters through these foodways and food symbols in Their Eyes Were Watching God. Food actively participates in Their Eyes Were Watching God as a form of communication because words, and other communicative forms normally associated with power, cannot within the confines of their social and ethnic status as African Americans.

 

 

Elzbieta Foeller-Pituch
Northwestern University

efp@northwestern.edu

 

“Eating Satirically: Food in the 1996 Film Adaptations of Jane Austen's Emma”

In Austen’s Emma  food is a commodity that circulates up and down the social ladder, marking the generosity of the privileged as they dispense gifts of hospitality. Crucial meals serve to highlight the social connections, hierarchies, and tensions between individuals, providing a vehicle for satiric interplay. The visual display of food in the film adaptations points to the crucial differences between the two movies. The American version, with Gwyneth Paltrow as Emma, represents a sunny romantic comedy, while the British version, with Kate Beckinsale as Emma, a darker, more historically accurate, class-inflected comedy of errors, revealing the poverty of the working classes and the role of numerous servants. These are practically absent from the Hollywood version, in which elegant food appears effortlessly onscreen, relegated to one more decorative item in the stunning backgrounds that provide a backdrop for the movie stars, evoke nostalgia for a sanitized past, and cater to the popularity of fairytale Regency romances. Both screen adaptations invite us to participate in upper-class pleasures of conspicuous leisure and consumption, but the English version also grapples with the serious issues present in the Austen novel.

 

Geoffrey Stacks

University of Denver

gstacks@purdue.edu

 

"The Ghostliness of Bread: The Hidden Drama of Baking in Pynchon's Mason & Dixon”

 

In Pynchon's novel Mason & Dixon, Mason's father, a baker, is described as a spiritual person who "believes that bread is alive." He teaches his son the art of baking, but young Mason eventually rejects his father's trade because he fears "the ghostliness of Bread." In fact, at one point, Mason falls asleep on a pillow of dough, and the rising bread penetrates his ear, saying "Remember us to your Father."

 

This short passage is not the only treatment of food within this large book, which includes a giant wheel of cheese and a famous chef being chased by a robotic duck. Yet my essay argues that contained within this three-page description of young Mason's short-lived tutelage as a baker are the important themes of this novel: religion, Mason's grief and attempt to communicate with his dead wife, and Pynchon's broader critique of the Enlightenment's desire for a rigorous ontological taxonomy. This critique is mostly a cartographic one, as Pynchon explores the consequences of drawing a straight line through pre-Revolution America, but in this passage the indeterminate status of bread as living, growing, religious food contains the hidden (and postmodern?) drama of the struggle between scientific certainty and alternative realities.

 

 

Janet Tanke

CUNY Graduate Center & The Feminist Press at CUNY

jtanke@gc.cuny.edu; jtanke4h@aol.com

 

“Food for Art’s Sake: The Culinary Writings of Elizabeth Robins Pennell (1896)”

 

Elizabeth Robins Pennell (1855-1936), author, art critic, and friend and co-biographer of James McNeill Whistler, belonged to the elite circle of 1890s aesthetes who promoted the credo of “Art for Art’s Sake.”  As evidenced by the food essays Pennell anonymously penned for the London Pall Mall Gazette column “The Wares of Autolycus” (1893-1896), her own mantra was “Food for Art’s Sake.”  In essays such as “’Bouillabaisse’; A Symphony in Gold,” Pennell elevates her middle-class female readers to artists, exhorting them to prepare everyday foods by invoking the tenets of high aestheticism, and by extolling a dish’s visual virtues as highly as the pleasure of the palate. In the preface to The Feasts of Autolycus (1896), a selection of her essays, Pennell asserts the book “does not pretend to be a ‘Cook’s Management’ or a ‘Household Companion’…it is rather a guide to Beauty, the Poetry that exists in the perfect dish, even as in the masterpiece of a Titian or a Swinburne.” In artistically writing about food, writing about food as an artistic creation, and calling the dish “poetry,” Pennell inserts food preparation, herself, and by extension her female readers, into the elite male aesthetic sphere.

 

 

Laura Fasick

Minnesota State University Moorhead

lfasick@hotmail.com

 

 “The Good Breast”: Women as Food-Givers in Victorian and 21st-Century Culture

 

Just as anorexia has become a major topic in recent studies of Victorian literature, so anorexia has become a major concern in current debates over the physical and emotional health of North American young women.  Studies of Victorian literature frequently claim that the Victorians idealized female anorexia as a sign of purity.  Today, while scientists search for a genetic basis for anorexia and while psychiatrists debate over how to treat it, many observers blame today’s media for idealizing an unrealistically thin female body type.  Yet both in Victorian times and in our own, an enormous amount of the praise or blame assigned to female relations with food derives not from the extent to which females deprive themselves but from the extent to which they nourish others.  Drawing upon the psychoanalytic theory of the “good breast” vs. the “bad breast” (that is, of the nourishing vs. the non-nourishing woman, with imagery derived from the breast-feeding infant’s first encounter with either food or a female food-giver), I will use examples both from Victorian literature and from today’s popular culture to show that the food-friendly female, not the food-denying female, is idealized in both periods.

 

 

Leah Kind

Northern Illinois Univ.

leahkind@uwm.edu

 

“Eat Me! Food as a Consuming Force in Katherine Mansfield and Virginia Woolf”

 

 

The life experiences of Virginia Woolf and Katherine Mansfield traversed many of the same pathways, and the two authors included many of the same subjects within their writing.  Although these two women were not close or intimate friends, they were quite familiar with the writings of each other, and a unique “working” relationship was thus established.  One thread between their stories is the inclusion of food, which always represents far more than simple nourishment.  This paper seeks to examine the use of food by Mansfield and Woolf, demonstrating their sharp and all consuming critiques of the society around them.  In the stories of both authors, the emergence of food is linked to an internal wrong, signifying that the problems of society extended far into the domestic sphere, and are hardly confined within that “quick bite.” 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Michelle E. Moore

The College of DuPage

moorem@cdnet.cod.edu

 

“Unlimited Quantities of M-M-M Food”: The Modern Artist as Cannibal in the Postwar American Novel

 

Patricia Highsmith’s The Talented Mr. Ripley series and Vladimir Nabokov’s Lolita recall and revise the figure of the cannibal in American fiction.  Ripley kills his friend, Dickey Greenleaf, whom he has been living off of in a rather parasitic way.  Metaphorically, he consumes his friend just as a mythical cannibal consumes another so that a particular trait may be digested and incorporated into the cannibal’s identity.  Humbert Humbert consumes the image Lolita just as rapidly as she consumes comic books.  Both characters act as ideal readers and interpreters who cannibalize the world as they read.   In turn, they must cannibalize in order to produce art as well.   Each character represents the Modernist ideal as they blend subject with object; artist with art. 

 

America’s twentieth-century images of the cannibal, then, play out the Modernist preoccupation with making “be be finale of seem.”  My paper will demonstrate the existence of and analyze the implications behind the resulting images of the Modern artist as monstrous cannibal.   My main focus will be on two texts The Talented Mr. Ripley and Lolita, which will be read as examples of a larger tendency in postwar fiction.

 

 

Cara Ogburn

University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee

ceogburn@uwm.edu

 

“Allez Cuisine: Constructions and Deconstructions of Gender on the Food Network”

 

In a recent interview on salon.com promoting his forthcoming book, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, writer Michael Pollan noted that Americans seem obsessed with food and by cooking as ritual, despite doing very little actual cooking. Founded in 1993 and focusing on preparation and overall celebration of food in and out of the home, cable television’s Food Network is one cultural site wherein we can observe and examine this ritualized obsession.

 

Though feminists have viewed kitchens as sites of women’s oppression and labor exploitation, the Food Network’s construction of gender in the kitchen seems to simultaneously complicate and reify this. This complicated relationship, it seems, points to larger crises in gender and identity construction in America today, especially as tied to rituals of food. I will consider this ritual as a performative structure that informs and is informed by constructions of gender in American culture at large. Through an analysis of gender construction in the kitchens of three popular Food Network shows, I will argue that the popularity of food and cooking in the media is tied to larger issues of the performativity of gender and identity in 21st century America.

 

 

Lynne F. Margolies
Manchester College

lfmargolies@manchester.edu



 “Eat Me: Rage and Rebellion in Rosario Castellanos’ ‘Cooking Lesson’ ”

Food and its preparation have a long and significant history in the works of Mexican women writers.   In her famous letter to Sor Filotea, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz describes the kitchen as laboratory in which women could learn more about science and philosophy from cooking than they do in the traditional classroom. In Amparo Dávila’s Haute Cuisine, the lessons learned in the kitchen mirror the narrator’s hysteria and psychological suffering as well as providing a vivid description of the breakdown of the most basic of family values. More recently, in Laura Esquivel’s Like Water for Chocolate  food is a metaphor for passion and desire.  Like these authors, Rosario Castellanos, in her story “Cooking Lesson,” uses images of food as a vehicle for expressing a societal problem–in this case the dilemma of a young wife who sees the kitchen as a symbol for her troubled marriage. As she prepares and then destroys the meat she has purchased for one of her first home-cooked meals, she realizes that she is trapped by the limitations of an oppressive, patriarchal society. She identifies with the meat that she is cooking and becomes increasingly angry and desperate as she undergoes as a series of metamorphoses that brings her to the brink of destruction.  Unlike Sor Juana, who found the kitchen to be the perfect classroom for the instruction of young women, Castellenos depicts the act of cooking as a recipe for rebellion and resignation.